What's the 411 on Retnoids and Retinols?

As many of you already know, I am really into proper skincare routine and anti-aging products. There are so many products available that claim youthful and clearer skin. Sometimes its worthwhile researching the active ingredients and knowing what you are putting on your face. Therefore, I believe retinoids is a topic worth understanding!

As our skin naturally ages, the skin tends to loose elasticity, developing wrinkles or fine lines. Retnoid based products are shown to reduce wrinkles, increase blood flow in skin, fight acne, increase cellular turnover, boost collagen and even skin tone.

WHAT ARE RETNOIDS?

Retinoids are a class of chemical compounds that are derivatives of vitamin A. It can be dispensed as prescription medications or it is available in a range of over-the counter products. Retinoids work by promoting the skin to rapidly turn over cells. Old cells die and new cell growth is generated.

WHAT IS RETINOL?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A, that naturally occurs in the skin. Over-the-counter skin products contain 0.05-2% of retinol. The mechanism action of retinol is that it is converted to retinoic acid, which is the active ingredient that show improvements in wrinkles and texture of skin. The fact that it has to go through a conversion process, it takes time to notice results (~3-6 months).

Retin- A (Tretinoin)

Tretinoin was the first retinoid approved by the FDA to treat acne. However, dermatologist noticed that patients on Retin-A experienced clear, soft, bright and less-lined skin. Therefore, it's common that Retin-A is used for skin rejuvenation. Retin-A is more potent than retinol, having an immediate effect. There is no conversion required by the body, since it is already formulated as retinoic acid. Therefore, results are seen much sooner than any other retinoid product (~4-8 weeks).

WHICH ONE TO CHOOSE?

What to choose depends on your skin type and reaction. It's a good idea to start with over-the-counter products to see how your skin reacts. If you do not see the results you are looking for, your dermatologist may recommend a prescription based retinoid, such as Retin-A.

TRUST ME, I AM A PHARMACIST

• Do not use retinoid products if you are pregnant or breastfeeding. These agents are teratogenic, which means it can cause fetal harm.
• Waxing can cause further irritation and redness; don't use a retinoid for several days before a treatment.
• Avoid use of benzoyl peroxide and alpha hydroxy acids, these may deactivate retinoids.
• Side effects include redness, irritation, sun sensitivity (wear your sunblock SPF 30 or higher) and swelling of the skin.